2012 Pedroncelli ‘Wisdom’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley

For as long as we’ve been drinking Pedroncelli wines — which is a lot longer than our archived reviews indicate, the wines have been crafted for immediate accessibility: Buy them today, drink them tonight. So it was a surprise to encounter this blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Malbec, which is a cuvee that’s clearly built to age. It’s a tightly wound wine with youthful, firm, drying tannins that suggest five or more years of cellaring or, if you don’t care to wait that long, splash decanting. Clove, cedar, eucalyptus, black plum and a hint of bittersweet chocolate are in evidence upon opening. After about an hour of aeration, aromas of dark flowers and black fruits come forth, demonstrating that while this is a good wine now, it could become an exceptional wine with sufficient time in the bottle.

MSRP: $36 (January 2016)

Wine Lines rating: 88+

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