In the past three years of so, Greek wines have made a decided comeback, to the point that I dare say they are no longer the disagreeable beverages many once thought they were. No, not every Greek wine tastes of Pine-Sol floor cleaner. Far from it — the ancient vines, many among the oldest in Europe, are producing wines of unquestioned character in the right hands, and a new generation of winemakers is bringing Greece back onto the world stage (possibly the only thing going right for the Greeks these days!).
This Assyrtiko from Sigalas is proof that dramatic turnaround has already happened, and that we should no longer dare to question whether good Greek wines exist. How good? Sigalas produces some of the most well-regarded whites of Santorini, and this 2011 bottling offers up a piercing acidic punch of green apple, stone, sea salt, roasted fennel and citrus-inflected herbs. A soft, supple mouthfeel rounds out the wine, giving length and urging you to sip again. Delicious value.
MSRP: $25 (February 2013)
Wine Lines Rating: 91