1990 R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Blanco Crianza Vina Gravonia, Spain
Yes, it’s 22 years old. Yes, it’s white Rioja.
And yes, it’s still good.
This golden-hued, very well aged wine admittedly has its shortcomings – my advice is to buy bottles only that show no signs of “browning” or excessive oxidation – but its powerful, Sherry-esque nose and smooth finish are worth taking a chance. It’s effuse with almonds, wildflower honey, ripe stone fruit and loose Virginia tobacco, but such a highly volatile collection of aromas does not beget a wild, unfinished wine. Instead, there’s something far more delicate and elegant, with light, Mediterranean notes of preserved citrus, meaty green olives and roasted nuts. It begs for rich, seared scallops atop a luscious swipe of caramelized onion puree.
Local Retail Price: $24.99 (on close-out)
Wine Lines Rating: 90
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RATINGS EXPLAINED
80-84 points: A sound wine that shows varietal character. 85-89 points: An unflawed wine that shows some depth and concentration of aromas and flavors. 90-93 points: A Gold Medal wine of its type, showing balance, depth and secondary flavor profiles found in the best of its style. 94-97 points: Hedonistic pleasure in a glass. Remarkable balance, aromas, flavor and length. A pure expression of the varietal or type. 98-100 points: A wine for the ages! Will drink sublimely for decades. Learn more here!
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