Yes, it’s 22 years old. Yes, it’s white Rioja.
And yes, it’s still good.
This golden-hued, very well aged wine admittedly has its shortcomings – my advice is to buy bottles only that show no signs of “browning” or excessive oxidation – but its powerful, Sherry-esque nose and smooth finish are worth taking a chance. It’s effuse with almonds, wildflower honey, ripe stone fruit and loose Virginia tobacco, but such a highly volatile collection of aromas does not beget a wild, unfinished wine. Instead, there’s something far more delicate and elegant, with light, Mediterranean notes of preserved citrus, meaty green olives and roasted nuts. It begs for rich, seared scallops atop a luscious swipe of caramelized onion puree.
Local Retail Price: $24.99 (on close-out)
Wine Lines Rating: 90