At first subdued, slightly underwhelming and relatively young in its common synthesis of greenish cherry fruit, menthol notes and mouth-coating chocolate sauciness. After 30 minutes, though, something entirely different appears: A voluptuous, wild wine bouncing between two spheres, one rustic, one civilized, as lusty licorice plays in a forest of roasted portabella mushrooms. A sustained feast of blackberries culminates this Italian triumph, which will hopefully improve with age.
MSRP: $90 at Cork Wine Bar in Washington D.C. (May 2012)
Wine Lines Rating: 90